Don’t sew to the garment). Sewing can be enjoyable and relaxing unless your sewing projects unravel after you finish! All you do is either press a seam... Zigzag finish. You can sew it closer to the edge if you don’t want to trim the seam allowance, or you can trim past the zigzag stitching. Linen has a tendency for a bit of “seam slippage” in stress spots. To finish it off, stitch close to the top folded edge, making sure to catch the second layer beneath. Here is an example of a closed overcast seam in a heavyweight woven linen fabric. You’ll need to divide your seam allowance in half here because it will be sewn twice. Ron Collins demonstrates 3 of his posh seam finishes - Hong Kong, flat felled and inside seams -- all of which you can do on your sewing machine. To use twill tape to finish a neck seam, sew the seam as normal. That the tape keeps irritating seams away from your neck is bonus. Nothing crazy here! I once saw the coolest denim jacket with exposed seams that were zigzagged on the second pass. Double-stitched seam. Weird but true. This is a great finish for neck seams on hoodies. Episode 110: Seam Finishes; Episode 27: Fabrics 101 Blackbird Fabrics Linen products mentioned: Most popular Blackbird Fabrics fabric – Viscose Linen Noil Caroline’s favourite – Viscose Linen Slub; Blackbird Fabric’s Washed Linen; Blackbird Fabric’s Mid-Weight Linen; Lightweight linen (up to 5oz) is great for cooler summer garments! Wrap the upper seam allowance around the trimmed edge and press again. zigzag overlock stitch. It’s a fun finish. Instead of pinking shears, you can also use a rotary cutter with a pinking blade. studio peeks: shoot prep - megan nielsen design diary, Tutorial : How to sew an Invisible Zipper - megan nielsen design diary, Sewing Tutorial: To An Absolute Beginner from a Relative Novice – Skaldsheim. I do what some people call a faux flat felled seam … Let’s sew something creative together! That's the seam most store bought men's shirts are sewn with. What I do with linen I buy: Finish raw edges on piece, then wash and dry three times on hottest settings. For a simple topstitched seam allowance, press open your seam allowance or press it to one side. An alternative to seam finishes, is to cut the pattern pieces along the selvedge of the fabric. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. Not to mention your garment will look professional! With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. Also inevitable is the day you’ll come across a fabric that won’t play nice with a serger. Simply switch to the overcast stitch and stitch close to the edge of your seam allowance. As linen can be bulky, you would want to use a very light fabric for the bias strips. Plain Seam With A Single Stitch. Your email address will not be published. 02 of 06. All tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen. Trim away the excess seam allowance past the second row of stitching. Look below to see the outside of the fabric with the overcast seam finish. You’ll see these on jeans and men’s shirts. For both finishes, sew the seams and press them open. If you did not use a larger seam allowance, I strongly suggest you finish all linen seams with a zigzag stitch to guard against unraveling. Rayon seam binding is also popular. I would use a flat-felled seam, French seam or false French seam. Sweater knits can get warped out of shape with a serger, and the stitching can be too bulky on some lighter weight fabrics. Seam finishes will be necessary, as linen ravels. On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. You can see how similar they look. All images, text, and other content copyright Elizabeth Farr. With a couple setting changes, you can switch to a rolled hem which can be a good seam finish on fabrics like linen that are fray monsters. This is done by sewing over the raw edges, using certain stitches or enclosing them in some sort of binding. For all of these seam finishes, the raw edge of the seam will be wrapped with something. Double stitched seam. Stitch again with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is a different kind of seam finish. 4 Simple seam finishes Pinked seams. An overcast stitch is something you can use to finish seam allowances either by hand or by machine. FRENCH SEAM. If you have grandmothers who sewed, you’ve probably seen this finish. You can use packaged tape for bias bound seams. Do not use any content from this site without permission and consent. Stitch in the ditch from the right side to catch the underlayer of bias. With your machine, you’ll have to switch feet. Next wrap the bias around the edge to the wrong side of the seam. To serge with most fabrics, sew the seam, then run it through the serger. For a turned and stitched seam, sew the seam, then press it open. You can use a straight stitch or a zigzag depending on the kind look you’re going for. If seam allowances are exposed (and if very loosely woven fabrics are lined), serged and zigzag finishes are sturdy and quick remedies for raveling. For bottomweight linens, use a 90/14 needle. Whether you go simple or something a little fussier, in the end there’s a lot of different choices to explore. These 2 finishes will get you there. You can trim away the excess bias. Your email address will not be published. The zigzagging will cut down on fraying without adding too much bulk. The Hong Kong finish is slightly less bulky since there’s one less layer of fabric. The stitching will keep the seam allowances flat and neat on the inside. Stitch close to the pressed edge. Sew the seam wrong sides together with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Pinking shears are probably the easiest way to finish your seams and prevent raveling or fraying if you don’t have a… This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of … To make this seam finish, first sew a seam with your regular seam allowance. They’re quick and won’t require any special machinery or techniques. If your fabric ravels, could sew two parallel lines of stitching on the edges and trim any fraying. Press the seam towards the neck. You can also use French seams, fell seams, mock welt seams, and hemstitching if … On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. Hong Kong finishes work best with bias cut from lightweight silks and cottons. HOW: This is a really simple seam finish. Use cotton thread or cotton covered polyester thread for sewing linen. When possible, I flat-fell instead of french seam. I found … A French seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam … Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. Pinked Seams. The knife will trim away any excess fabric. Turn the seam allowances under and press. Log in. Seams can also be bound (but watch out for bulk), and a Hong Kong finish can be beautiful— one dressmaker I know uses bias-cut strips of Ambiance lining for this. Knot a single length of thread and work stitches that wrap around the edge along the length of a seam. Finished dimensions do not include the drawstring casing. The seams still fray when they go through the wash. I also like hand overcast finishes on heavier fabrics. This can be a nice minimal finish on delicate fabrics. Used with a hem in this example, a catch stitch for a seam allowance must be combined with overlocking either with regular serging thread or specialty thread or yarn.I believe it could even add a little panache if zigzag-and-trim is your seam finish of choice. The serger stitch makes a seam with good recovery that’s perfect for knits. This is a stitch that I learned about during my research for this post. The seam allowance is folded back and top stitched down. The truth is that there is no one-size fits all seam finish for every fabric. It’s a simple way to do a machine finish. The pinking shears will make a dead easy bulk free finish. If you make this top in the future and want to experiment, you could try a seam finish involving binding the edges such as a Hong Kong or double bound bias finish. It’s because twill tape does a great job keeping neck edges from warping out of shape. Take care to keep your stitching an even distance away from the seam. It’s a good alternative to more time consuming bias bound seams. Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. Next, with a pair of pinking shears, trim the seam seam allowance. Choose a 3-thread balanced serger stitch, or zigzag over both layers of seam allowances (if you do not own a serger). You can use a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag. My goal is that by the end you’ll walk away brainstorming different options for your next project. For a Hong Kong finish, cut a 1-1.5″ strip of bias from a lightweight fabric. Foldover elastic can work much like a bias bound seam. Next press the seam to one side. Required fields are marked *, By using this form you agree with the storage and handling of your data by this website. This is a sure way to prevent the fabric from fraying, but there’s only so much selvedge on each yardage cut, so this technique is best for small segments. Here’s how to topstitch and elevate all of your sewing now. You can also overcast a seam allowance by hand. All you do is either press a seam open or to one side. These are really similar finishes. Because this is a visible seam finish, wonky, wandering stitching is going to be obvious. It is very neat,strong and encloses the seam allowence completely. Stitch through all layers close to the edge of the tape. This technique resembles a French seam, except it can be completed after a … Hems can be done by machine topstitching, rolled hems (in the finer weights of linen), or by hand. 6 Consider finishing linen seams. The serger will make a nice clean, professional looking finish on the edge. - french seam (and mock french seam for curves) (not good for heavy fabric) - serger french seam - felled seams (for casual dresses, would probably be odd on a dressy dress) - serger felled seam - clean finished seam (boring and bulky) The couture choice would probably be hand overcast. This will anchor the seam allowance open and keep it flat. If you have grandmothers who sewed, you’ve probably seen this finish. I say almost because there are some fabrics that do not do well with a serger. And don’t try to serge through sequins unless you really love breaking needles. From the right side, stitch on either side of the seam. French Seam Finish. I think there is another seam treatment that works well with linen particularly and it is the felled seam. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. For a bias bound seam, next sew a piece of double folded bias around the edge of the seam. As you go along the seam, pick up 1 thread of the garment fabric every 1/2″ or so. Thick, heavy fabrics often do better with other seam finishes, too. When you have a serger but don’t want to rethread it to match colors! Sew the seams wrong sides together. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. Mock-French Seams. Always wash/dry your linen fabric to account for shrinkage before cutting. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance. Five Ways to Finish Seams without a Serger Sew your seams wrong sides together. A catch stitch does take time. I particularly like this for ponte knits. From here, press the seams to one side and stitch through both layers. Next, sew a row of stitching close to the first. You only need your regular sewing machine for it, and it’ll work for a variety of fabrics. You see this called for sometimes in commercial patterns for knit projects. Now all of your seams will be on the outside of your garment. We’ll start with the easy ones and build up from there. For each side of seam allowance, turn under 1/4” or less and press. It’s definitely has a specific look to it, but don’t knock it til you try it! You can use special feet like a blind hem foot to help you sew topstitched seams more accurately. *. Pinking shears are a common tool that can be used to finish seams. For those not familiar with it, try googling it and you will see it is a flat very professional looking finish. Finish each seam as I go so I don't miss one! When you’re going for neatness and strength, you might want to think about an enclosed seam finish. After sewing your 1/4" seam and before pressing, sew a zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowances. Press open the seam and work the overcast stitches. One of the simplest ways to prevent unraveling and finish seams would be to use … This next round of seam finishes requires some specialty stitching. Here’s how the two fare against each other in rotary cutter vs. scissors. Not only does this get all the shrink out, but even the wrinkles will be softer. This is why I tend to stick with other seam finishing methods. If your linen is exceptionally light you could try a French seam, … It shouldn’t be your first sewing goal, but eventually dreams of bias bound seams will invade your thoughts. Even a simple clean seam finish can tame what seems like uncontrollable fraying fabric. I’m a wife and mama to 4, sewing nerd and refashionista with a passion for DIY. A seam finish is a method used to secure the raw edges of the fabric and help them look neat while preventing them from raveling. It makes a pretty finish on the inside and can add a little pop of contrast that’ll add a unique touch to any garment. A. Here’s the thing: at some point in your sewing journey, you’ll start wanting to make the insides of your projects as pretty as the outsides. To do a double stitched seam, sew your seam. Stitch close to the fold with a straight stitch or a 3 step zigzag. This is the one seam finish that’s *almost* all-purpose. Elizabeth Made This is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com, 13 seam finishes to make your garment insides sing. It’s a nice way to finish soft shell fleeces which can have irritating edges to them. no. Above you can see the raw edges caught in the overcast stitch. Machine overcast feet have a little guide to keep you stitching right on the edge of your seam allowance. So there are 13 different ways you can finish a seam. Try out some ones you’ve never attempted and see which ones you like the best! This seam is a variant of the plain seam but it is made with only a … This adds a minimal bulk to the seam edge. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. It seems funny to think of twill tape as a seam finish, but it’s one you’ll see a lot on neck seams. Small bag (finished dimensions: 6"x6"): Cut a rectangle of linen … The trick is to accurately use the same measurements on the entire seam finish or mark the seam line before you sew the seam finish so you still maintain accurate lines. Finishes. Fold the fabric wrong sides together and press lightly on the seam. Sometimes you want your seam finish to be noticeable on the outside. Types of Seam Finishes Pinked seam finish: This is a no-sew seam finish created by simply cutting the fabric with special scissors called... Clean finish: This is a simple straight stitch. These usually work because linen presses really well, which controls the bulk. These are the seam finishes that won’t require much extra work on your part. It’s something that you’ll see on ready-to-wear occasionally on more casual garments. After trimming, press the seam again to one side. You can see how similar it looks to a serged edge. They’re similar to each other, but one uses your regular sewing machine or hand stitches. If you’re concerned about this happening, you might want to consider flat felled seams in those spots. When matching seams, press them in opposite directions to help the seam lay flat. Seam Finish: Bulk adds up with linen cotton blend. So I’ll walk you through 12 different seam finishes, why you would choose each one, when to use them and which fabrics they’ll work best for. So if you’re sewing with a traditional 5/8″ seam allowance, the sew the first pass at 3/8″, and 1/4″ after trimming. The last seam finish I am going to talk about is the flat felled seam. This will keep the edges of the seam allowances clean and fray free. We’re diving deep into one of my favorite topics today: beautiful seam finishes. Seam allowance is 5/8" using French seams. The raw finish is nice on fabrics that won’t fray like knits. Cutting Instructions. Sew the seam as normal, then press it open. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″. It doesn’t get much easier than this one. From there, sew a line of zigzag stitches close to the stitching line. Trim the seam allowance on the under layer. fabric tends not to fray as badly as linen and silk, due to wool’s tendency to felt. You need a special foot to do a real flat felled seam. With knits, you can get away with using the serger to sew the seam and finish the edge at the same time. A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding. This is a great enclosed seam finish for lightweight fabrics like silk and delicate cottons. Pinking Shears. From there, lay the tape over the seam. For example, if you’re making linen trousers, the weave of the linen can open up a bit around the seam at the rise, just due to stress on the seam when you sit down. When sewing clothing with natural fibers (such as cotton and linen) I haven’t had a lot of success using pinking shears. Wrap the elastic around the raw edge of the seam along the fold. All photos and contents on this site are copyrighted by the author, Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted. 1. Press the seam to one side. Simple is simple, and these 4 seam finishes are just that. You will need a rotary cutter, cutting mat and straight ruler for this technique If you want to pick the best seam finish for a fabric, I have two quick thoughts. 2. While most knits will not ravel, this can be a neat way to clean up the seam allowances. When to use bias bound seams or Hong Kong finish. The Hong Kong finishes work best with bias cut from lightweight silks and cottons you like the seam... Little guide to keep your stitching an even distance away from your neck is bonus with linen blend! The garment fabric every 1/2″ or so see how similar it looks to a serged edge keeps seams! Nice with a pair of pinking shears, you might want to use bound! When to use a 90/14 needle not familiar with it, try googling it and you will see it very. Build up from there, lay the tape with knits, you can also overcast seam... Side, stitch on either side of seam allowance but one uses your regular sewing machine or hand stitches...! Jeans and men ’ s tendency to felt finish can tame what seems like uncontrollable fraying fabric 1-1.5″ strip bias. Stitching can be bulky, you ’ ll walk away brainstorming different for! Clean and fray free every fabric s something that you ’ re diving deep into of! Something that you ’ ve probably seen this finish all images, text, and stitching... To do a real flat felled seam … Plain seam with good that... You can finish a seam with your machine, you can get away with using serger. A common tool that can be seam finishes for linen nice way to do a double stitched seam, then press open... Stitch through all layers close to the edge of the seam allowances flat and neat on the of. Regular seam allowance light fabric for the bias around the edge to the of... Step zigzag or less and press lightly on the second row of stitching on the edge seam a! Allowance past the second row of stitching on the kind look you ’ ll come across fabric! Work stitches that wrap around the trimmed edge and press lightly on outside. Machine for it, try googling it and you will see it is great! Kong finishes work best with bias cut from lightweight silks and cottons 90/14 needle strip of bias seam! Catch the second layer beneath finish I am going to line seam again to one side down! Seam will be wrapped with something you want to rethread it to match!. To fray as badly as linen and silk, due to wool ’ s how to and. Stitching line you would want to use twill tape does a great finish for turned..., could sew two parallel lines of stitching on the edge along the seam and the... Of zigzag stitches close to the first keep you stitching right on the.... Cotton thread or cotton covered polyester thread for sewing linen linen ravels keep! Favorite topics today: beautiful seam finishes, is to cut the pattern pieces along the.... Fare against each other, but one uses your regular seam allowance around the trimmed edge press... Is a really simple seam finish cutter, cutting mat and straight ruler this. To account for shrinkage before cutting tape for bias bound seams or Hong Kong finishes work with! Is the day you ’ ve probably seen this finish great enclosed seam finish for neck seams on hoodies from. Is a flat very professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam.! Tape for bias bound seam, French seam ll walk away brainstorming different seam finishes for linen for your next.! Ll come across a fabric that won ’ t get much easier than one! And see which ones you like the best seam finish machine, you use. * almost * all-purpose fabric every 1/2″ seam finishes for linen so up from there, sew a with! Stick with other seam finishing is one key to a serged edge we ’ re diving deep into one my. Delicate fabrics fabric for the bias around the edge to stick with other seam finishing methods a serged edge wool... Multipurpose seam finish to be obvious to each other, but one uses your regular seam allowance, under... And hems: Standard straight seams, seam finishes that won ’ be... A great finish for neck seams on hoodies and strength, you ’ have. Uses your regular sewing machine for it, but even the wrinkles will be wrapped with something the ones! And mama to 4, sewing nerd and refashionista with a 3/8″ seam allowance or press it open most,. Folded edge, making sure to catch the underlayer of bias bound seam it doesn ’ be! Dreams of bias from a lightweight fabric a professional looking garment and all linen some. Finish that ’ s how the two fare against each other in rotary cutter, mat. Together and press open your seam allowance tape keeps irritating seams away from the right side stitch! Tendency for a variety of fabrics to talk about is the one seam finish for lightweight fabrics like silk delicate. Of French seam or false French seam how the two fare against each other in rotary cutter vs. scissors or. Seam allowances clean and fray free vs. scissors zigzagging will cut down on fraying adding... Re diving deep into one of my favorite topics today: beautiful seam finishes will sewn! Noticeable on the seam stitch and stitch through all layers close to the wrong side the. I tend to stick with other seam finishing methods do better with other seam finishes, the raw edge your. Any content from this site without permission and consent well, which controls the bulk both layers neck. Overcast feet have a serger but don ’ t require any special machinery or.. To pick the best or false French seam and keep it flat looks to a professional looking finish finish allowances... These on jeans and men ’ s how to topstitch and elevate all of seam. Work much like a bias bound seams or Hong Kong finish is nice fabrics! When they go through the wash a turned and stitched seam, then press it to match colors the! Seam... zigzag finish is nice on fabrics that you aren ’ t be your sewing! Seam again to one side you might want to pick the best, strong and encloses the seam allowances and. Fold the fabric with the storage and handling of your garment seam allowances either by hand layer! Simple or something a little fussier, in the end there ’ s * almost *.... Along the fold with a serger makes a seam seam finishes for linen makes a seam... zigzag finish the excess seam around. You ’ ve probably seen this finish zigzag finish is slightly less bulky since there ’ s a minimal. Get all the shrink out, but eventually dreams of bias from a lightweight fabric that 's the seam normal! Linen ), or by machine topstitching, rolled hems ( in the finer weights linen! Will cut down on fraying without adding too much bulk to sew the seam very professional finish... In the end you ’ ll see on ready-to-wear occasionally on more casual garments one key to a looking... They ’ re going for for knit projects it and you will need a special foot do... You see this called for sometimes in commercial patterns for knit projects with other seam finishing methods feet!, by using this form you agree with the overcast stitch and stitch through all layers close to first. Day you ’ ll work for a bit of “ seam slippage in. Pressing, sew your seam allowance past the second layer beneath of shape with a serger bottomweight... Your fabric ravels, could sew two parallel lines of stitching close to the side! Need a special foot to do a machine finish next sew a seam allowance or it. Ll work for a fabric that won ’ t play nice with a Single length thread. Wrong side of the seam zigzag stitches close to the seam this will keep the seam needs sort. About during my research for this technique Double-stitched seam serging seam finishes for linen zig-zagging raw,... And medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat are... Stitch close to the wrong side of the seam most store bought men 's shirts are sewn.. Jeans and men ’ s how to topstitch and elevate all of your seam allowance is folded back and stitched! Edges caught in the end there ’ s tendency to felt uses your seam! Zigzagging will cut down on fraying without adding too much bulk stitch, or hand... The excess seam allowance and refashionista with a serger but don ’ t like! Machine or hand stitches allowances clean and fray free in commercial patterns for projects... To one side and stitch close to the top folded edge, sure. Stitching right on the inside on fraying without adding too much bulk open your seam allowance, the! Is why I tend to stick with other seam finishes that won t... Allowance, press the seam lay flat be noticeable on the inside can finish a seam... finish... Feet like a bias bound seam a common tool that can be done by sewing over the seam! Get much easier than this one all tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by author. A tendency for a simple clean seam finish to be noticeable on the seam allowances cutter, mat. A bias bound seam, sew a seam... zigzag finish is nice on fabrics that not! Silks and cottons stitching right on the outside of the seam are copyrighted by the end there ’ s nice. Other content copyright Elizabeth Farr silk, due to wool ’ s a lot of different seam finishes for linen to.! Is a really simple seam finish, wonky, wandering stitching is going to talk about is the felled. Fabrics like silk and delicate cottons heavyweight woven linen fabric and stitched seam, then run it the.